Being a Black Chef in a White-Led Restaurant Industry Isn’t Easy—But I’m Not Giving Up

When you’re Black in America, racism is a constant. And as a queer Black woman working in restaurants, I’ve experienced it all firsthand. Sometimes it’s action and sometimes it’s words, but it all comes from the same place. On my better days I find happiness in the simple acts of cooking: methodically chopping vegetables; pan-frying …

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How to Make Oat Milk at Home

Next, strain through a clean t-shirt (a nut milk bag will allow too much sediment through) into your storage receptacle of choice. You can gently nudge the oat mixture through the cloth with the back of a spoon, but don’t push too hard or squeeze the leftover pulp, which contains the gluey starch compounds (although …

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There’s Sweet and Dry—and Then There’s Vermouth Bianco

When I started making cocktails at home, I knew that I needed to stock my bar with two types of vermouth: dry and sweet. The brightness of dry vermouth gives structure to martinis, while sweet vermouth’s spicy, vanilla-y bittersweetness mellows out boozy Manhattans and Negronis. There is, however, a world of vermouth beyond the sweet/dry …

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I’m Gifting Friends and Family (and Myself) Internet Cookies During Quarantine

This is Highly Recommend, a column dedicated to what people in the food industry are obsessed with eating, drinking, and buying right now. One of the strangest things about a global pandemic is that, for better or for worse, life keeps moving. Milestone holidays still have to happen—even though it feels like they shouldn’t be …

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Ghee-Poached Shrimp

Line a fine-mesh sieve set over a measuring glass with cheesecloth. Heat butter, ginger, garlic, chiles de árbol, chipotle chile, cardamom, star anise, cinnamon stick, cloves, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and peppercorns in a medium heavy saucepan over low until foaming and milk solids turn brown and begin to stick to bottom of pan, about …

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Thuppa Anna

Melt remaining 2 Tbsp. ghee in same wok, then add a mustard seed. As soon as the oil around the seed starts to sizzle or the seed moves, carefully add remaining mustard seeds, then urad dal (if using) and asafetida. Quickly cover pan and cook, shaking, until mustard seeds start popping more gradually, about 30 …

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Chai Cake With Brown-Butter-Ghee Streusel

Preheat oven to 325°. Line a 9×9″ baking pan with parchment paper, leaving overhang on 2 sides. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk eggs, egg yolk, yogurt, milk, granulated sugar, brown sugar, vanilla extract, ¾ cup reserved ghee, and 1 tsp. reserved caramelized milk solids in a large …

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How to Make Vietnamese Egg Coffee With Whipped Egg Yolks and Sweetened Condensed Milk

The only thing better than a good recipe? When something’s so easy to make that you don’t even need one. Welcome to It’s That Simple, a column where we talk you through the process of making the dishes and drinks we can make with our eyes closed. When we were younger, my parents would often …

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Fall Larb

Smash garlic and a small pinch of salt to a coarse paste with a mortar and pestle. Add chiles and lightly smash (the finer you pound the chiles, the spicier the dressing will be). Mix in lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. water. (Or, finely chop garlic and salt, then chiles, on a …

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