Smash garlic and a small pinch of salt to a coarse paste with a mortar and pestle. Add chiles and lightly smash (the finer you pound the chiles, the spicier the dressing will be). Mix in lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. water. (Or, finely chop garlic and salt, then chiles, on a cutting board and smash with the side of a chef’s knife. Mix in a bowl with remaining ingredients.)

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